Postcard from Port Lockroy

The weather! The weather! It’s snowing now, fat white flakes, but I am red from the sun in spite of my 30SPF sun block. This morning we went through the second — or maybe the third — floating sculpture garden, there are two headed horses and the Black Hole Sun and some of them are …


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Taking the Bus to the End of the Road

I’ll just admit it, there’s no shame in it: I don’t like bus tours. I won’t think worse of you for taking one, they are, after all, so very convenient. What could be easier than being swept up from the door of your hotel, whisked off to see the sights in an air conditioned coach, …


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A Map for Penguins

As the launching station for so many Antarctica cruises, it’s not surprising that the port city of Ushuaia is packed full of penguin themed souvenirs. Sure, you can get your t-shirts and plush penguin chicks, but you can also get hats, fridge magnets, shot glasses, carved bric-a-brac, coffee mugs, pitchers in the shape of a …


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Counting Penguins Before They’ve Hatched

The airport is a zoo. I stand in the wrong line for five, maybe ten minutes until I figure out what’s happening. Then I see it – the web check-in counter. I checked in online last night, I’m good to go. That line, it’s got two people in it, rather than the crowd of humans …


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