a camera, a passport, a ukulele

The Girl’s Guide to Travel Romance

July 15, 2010 – 3:36 pm | by nerd's eye view

“They’ll be huge!”

We are sitting in our backyard having BBQ with two fine people who have just moved into our neighborhood. The light is low and golden, I am drinking shandy — beer and lemonade — out of a pint glass. The table is littered with the detritus of our meal — a bowl of slaw with enough left for tomorrow’s lunch, an almost empty bottle of mustard, a jar of sauerkraut, some empty beer bottles. The topic at hand? My upcoming travel/romance novel series.

“I’m not doing it. There’s no way.”

“But you’ll make a fortune! They’ll get wrapped in pink covers, they can take place at all the great backpacker sites around the planet. You can franchise them and then, you’ll be on Oprah!”

“Shut. Up.”

“Don’t be so negative. You wanted to make some money doing travel writing, didn’t you? You don’t have to write them under your own name, you can use a pen name. I’m TELLING you, they’ll be great. You can TOTALLY do this.”

“NO.”

The problem is that now, I have this stupid idea lodged in my head. I keep waking up thinking of my heroine. She’s scrappy and independent. She’s taking a year off from, what… something where she’s got a little money saved, maybe she’s a paralegal or a pharmacist. I have this whole set up in my head where she’s adjusting the straps on her new pack and trying to get down to two pairs of shoes. And then she’s standing at the train station in, oh, let’s say Prague because wow, there’s a cliche if ever there was one. And so it begins, a scribbled address of a friend of a friend, or a note stuffed in last year’s guidebook, picked up at a used bookstore in her hometown, or a smeared phone number that’s now illegible because when she got off the train it was raining and she wasn’t paying attention because even though his English was halting, he was so handsome

“They’re going to write themselves. You don’t have to even DO that much. Have you started yet?”

“Seriously. Back off. I’m not doing it. Leave me alone.”

My brain is buzzing lately and it’s not the caffeine, I can assure you. There is something cooking in there, and while I am quite sure it is not a series of vapid romance novels that take place in Siem Reap or Monteverde or Prague, I can’t tell you what, exactly, it is. It might be that I’m unemployed as of late and my subconscious has the free reign it so enjoys when I’m not living in a land dominated by acronyms. It might be that I’m sitting on some new work and just don’t know it yet. I know that I dream a lot, vividly, and am very tired from doing so. There’s a little electric hum, like something is going to happen and it could be tiny, or huge, or transitory and I won’t know until after it’s over when I can look back and say, “Oh, that’s what that was about.”

I think about words all the time. I’ve heard tell that there are people that see music, that it’s in color for them. Synesthesia, it’s called. There’s a version for words and numbers, too — synesthetes see words as having more than just letters in them, they have color or personality. I wouldn’t go so far as to say I’m there, but I’m bizarrely compelled, lately;  writing feels like putting together a puzzle and every word has a correct place. I’m walking around in a mental Dictionopolis* and someone has spilled the dusty, underused parts of our vernacular on to a flea market table. “Look at this,” says the voice in my head, “imagine what you could do with these words if you just cleaned them up a little bit.”

A few weeks back I watched Waikiki Wedding, a 1937 movie about a PR hack and, of course, a beautiful girl. Martha Rae plays the stenographer — she’s a typist, basically, and there’s a scene in the movie where she pecks away at a “portable” typewriter while the beautiful girl dictates. We recently acquired a 1939 typewriter; it must weigh 30 pounds; it’s certainly heavier than any luggage I’ve ever traveled with, even when schlepping suitcases full of books across the Atlantic. The ribbon is dry and the “e” sticks but the machine works all the same, and for some reason when I look at it, it appears filled with words, with a novel, maybe, or very long form nonfiction. It’s filled with words the way my computer isn’t. I stand at the keyboard pecking out sentences that make no sense out of context; the letters are embossed onto a sheet of white paper.

“Do you want to make money writing or not? Don’t be such a snob.”

Grand Canal

“Leslie waves at the train as it pulls away. She can just see him, his palms pressed up against the glass but in an instant, he’s gone, the train is a blur, and she’s standing there alone. She notices, with a twinge of pride, that the pack is no longer heavy. It’s there, she can feel the shape of it behind her, but the weight is even, reassuring, almost. The air smells wet, the rails are shiny as she looks at the tiny window of the last car as it disappears from sight. She snaps into focus and realizes she’s still waving, even though the train is long gone. She looks at the sky; it is starting to rain, but there’s still plenty of daylight. Leslie breathes in the new air, once, twice, and then, turns her back to the station. Venice is before her, across the water, and she has no place to stay.”

“I’m not going to do it.  If you’re so keen on the idea, YOU do it. Don’t you have something more important to do? Stop pestering me.”

*Just read The Phantom Tollbooth. Now.

Becoming the Beach

July 10, 2010 – 4:20 pm | by nerd's eye view

We live walking distance from Lincoln Park, a gorgeous stretch of beach and tall trees on the East side of Puget Sound. A few times a year, we have low tides and if I’m paying attention and we’re at leisure to do so, we walk down to the beach to poke take a look at the sea critters.

It’s about 20 minutes from the front porch to the water. At -2.5, the tide is out well beyond the usual low point. When the tide is this low, there’s an abundance of sea life. Today’s tide revealed a rocky beach covered in a shiny green cellophane of kelp, the surface littered with bright purple starfish and glittering orange tentacled sunstars. Moon jellyfish floated in the shallow water, sometimes they were trapped on the rocks, a gooey transparent circle drying out in the hot sun. There are sea cucumbers — when they’re open, they show their feathery orange gills — and anemones shut tight, slick and weird. If you step wrong — or right, depending on how you interpret it — you may upset a clam buried not too deep in the sand and you will be admonished with a spray of water up to your knees.

The birds go crazy at all this exposed life — it is a fresh salad and seafood bar to them. Crows pick at the crabs, seagulls flip over the broad leaves of rust colored seaweed to find snails underneath. We sat on giant tree trunks, bleached white, and watched a bald eagle slowly lope by, low enough and close enough that we could hear the swish of his wings.

I toyed with the idea of the tidal zone as a metaphor for the human body, how if we were not held together by our skin, we would be like everything on the beach, salty and slick, our bones white like the giant driftwood, our hearts and lungs and livers salty and wet and breathing. I find this reassuring rather than gory, as though I could deconstruct and then, become the beach. It would not be a bad thing to be a beach, not this beach. To be so well loved, so appreciated, met with such glee by all those toddlers who, upon finding yet another slimy, salty, oozing, tentacled living thing, squeal with delight while running up and down the sand under the sparkling summer light.

All pictures in the slideshow above were shot by the unappreciated tech support and logistics team (aka “The Husband” and “Mr. NEV”) using a Panasonic Lumix.

Seattle Romantic Vacation

Oregon Entropy

July 6, 2010 – 11:10 am | by nerd's eye view
Amity Junk Store Amity Grain Elevator Portland Warehouse

Messy Thoughts on TBEX 10

July 1, 2010 – 1:17 pm | by nerd's eye view

Mike Barish and Pam MandelJust for context: TBEX is the Travelblog Exchange — a conference dedicated to travelblogging. The conference took place in brutally hot and humid Manhattan last weekend and pulled together about 300 people from all over the planet. I spoke on a panel about PR and bloggers and I shared reading the community keynote — eight travel stories — with the excellent and funny Mike Barish (in the powder blue tux). Here are a few disorganized thoughts about the experience.

Ego:  Let me get this bit of self aggrandizing out of the way first. It is truly an amazing thing to experience this: You introduce yourself to a room  — “My name is Pam Mandel and I write a blog called Nerd’s Eye View” — and the room bursts into applause. I can not express how overwhelmed with gratitude I was at that moment. And I truly hope that you, fellow blogger, get to have that experience yourself one day. I’m still swooning a little. Moving on…

Noise:  It’s no big secret that crowds make me uncomfortable. I don’t like loud rooms full of shouting people and a lot of TBEX was in a loud room full of shouting people. It was simply not possible to interact in an effective way during most of the conference free time. I’m also kind of dorky in a crowd so if you introduced yourself to me and I said something like, “OH! It’s nice to meet you!” and then floated away in a distracted manner, well, I’m sorry. Please, forgive me and promise me that when you come through Seattle (on your way to Vancouver, perhaps?) you will look me up. I  adore meeting other travelbloggers, I love hearing about what you’re doing, and finding out what you know that I don’t, but I just can’t work a room. Email me, okay? I was chatting with Mike Yessis at the Australia lunch and he joked that I needed a private room with a sign up sheet for visits. He’s not far off, though I am no princess, no snob. I just like to be able to converse in a space where I can hear you.

Stage Fright: I am now officially shutting the hell up about my stage fright issues. I was completely unworried during my panel, and while I was a little nervous at the beginning of the community keynote reading, about five minutes in I was just fine. If I stumbled on your words, I’m truly sorry. It wasn’t so much nerves as it was dehydration, the New York heat had baked me dry. For all of this, I own a big thanks to two things. The first, the remarkable Sheila Scarborough who seemed to think I’d be a good partner for a panel at SxSW last year and, yes, that’s right, the ukulele [video link]. Get one.

Storytelling: As for that reading, it was truly an honor to read your stories. Mike and I struggled over the selection process tremendously and while I’ve read the criticism (too long, wrong time of day, certain travelers not represented) I hope that, if nothing else, you were inspired by the amazing writing our fellow bloggers are doing.

Community: I still perceive myself as the bookish one in the corner, but it’s getting kind of crowded over here. When 300 people spring for a summer weekend in NYC, you can’t pretend you’re alone, not for a minute. Sure, you can divide the room in to mellow West coast types and East coasters in fancy shoes, or you could draw a line between the backpackers and the traveling moms or the how to crowd versus the narrative crowd (though being part of the puny narrative crowd, I think the how to folks will crush us). You could do that, but why would you? I have learned so much from the not-me bloggers in our community, and we seem to be free from the kind of competition that prevents us from sharing our skills in order to get ahead. I love that about travelbloggers. I like to think it’s an extension of our love for travel, we’re happy to help out a fellow wanderer in this new territory.

Face Time: I’m continually thrilled to find out that if I like you online, you’re about 900 times better in 3D. And it’s got nothing to do with you sharing my travel style, priorities, agenda. I like the traveling moms so much, even though I’m blissfully without kids. I haven’t really hauled a backpack since, oooo, I’m not saying, but those just-starting-out gap year folks are busting with infectious enthusiasm. While I’m most at home with the egg-headed word lovers, I’ve got a lot of respect for those who have put their minds to the business end of the stick. If I’ve taken a shine to who you are on the web, regardless of your pigeon hole, I want to hang out with you in person.You never disappoint me. Never. I love that about you.

Edges: Sure, I can sit in a hall and listen to people talk at me. If it’s entertaining and/or compelling, it’s time well spent, but it’s not, in itself, what makes me drag myself across the country. I keep showing up at these things because of the fairy dust around the edges. Quality time with Kelly Goodman and Lauren Braden in our Village digs. Crossing Manhattan with Spud Hilton and Mike Barish. Having a drink in that mostly empty bar with Kelly and Debbie Dubrow and Don George and Wendy Perrin. That quiet lunch with Corey Taratuta. Sitting on the floor with Eileen Smith and Dan Noll and Audrey Scott. Wandering around Soho with Ali Lemer. This is what I like, better than anything, about having so many great people in one place at one time: the opportunity to get to know you better on a small scale.

Inspiration: I overheard the remark “I’m really inspired to do [fill in the blank] now!” come out of all kinds of people, from people who are just starting out to the old school journalists who took time to find out what we upstarts are all about. “I need to learn more about [fill in the blank]!” “I want to work with you on [crazy mad project].”  Ad infinitum. I’ve got a few new ideas myself, they’re rolling around in my brain like a marble I found in the garden, some of them collaborative, some of them solo, all of them inspired by something at TBEX.

Vancouver! I’m giddy about the selection of Vancouver for next year’s TBEX for a bunch of reasons. It’s just up the road, I don’t have to fly to get there. I love Vancouver, it’s a great place to travel. It’s close enough that you might consider showing up here in Seattle prior to or after your trip to Van-City, so there’s a good chance I’ll get to hang out with you — you’ll be in my backyard, almost. I can’t wait for the chance to hang out with you again. You’ll let me know when you’re getting into town, right? Right. Of course you will.

TBEX Community Keynote Links

June 29, 2010 – 10:28 am | by nerd's eye view

“The blog posts that were read at the TBEX community keynotes were as well-written and meaningful as anything I’ve read in glossy travel magazines lately.” — Here Comes Everybody: TBEX 10 || Chris Around the World

“…it struck me as the perfect bookend to the panel on travel writing: examples of great stories in action. And I want more more more!” – We Tell Ourselves Stories in Order to Live* – TBEX’10 Wrap Up || Allison Stein Wellner, Perceptive Travel

The links in the list below go to the original blog posts we selected for the TBEX community keynote.  In almost every case, we asked the writer to edit for brevity, so the versions you heard at TBEX vary from the versions you’ll find online. Go, tell these people how much you loved their work.

When you’re done leaving comments, come back here and let me know what you thought of the keynote. Too long? Fell asleep? Wanted more? Wished you were in and wonder why you didn’t submit your own story? Want to know more about what we were looking for? Anything else besides “Wow, you sure garbled the pronunciation of Essouaria!”  It’s no excuse, but, reading after you’ve had all the moisture sucked out of your body by a New York summer is hard work.

In the comments, please. Thanks.

My Imaginary Life in Greenwich Village

June 25, 2010 – 9:28 am | by nerd's eye view

I’m in a HomeAway sponsored vacation rental while in NYC. FYI.

I like vacation rentals because they allow me to migrate more easily into the fantasy that the place I’m visiting is actually my home. I can carry a bag of groceries up three flights to my temporary flat. I can have a neighborhood where people live, where bicycles are locked up on back balconies and my window looks not into an impersonal wall of hotel rooms, but into other apartments where dishes pile up on counters and conversations about work leak out into the weird narrow spaces between buildings.

There are three of us in this grand two bedroom flat near the corner of Bleecker and Cornelia. We have an impressive patio with a BBQ, we can fall out of the front door into a sushi bar, a row of Italian delis, a spectacular gelato place (“Did I read that right? Does that say 5.25 for a small!?!?!”). The Christopher Street subway station is two or three short blocks away, Washington Square Park, is just there, and a fountain plaza, I don’t know the name, is around the corner.

Risotteria

Last night we sat on our patio eating the aforementioned expensive gelato, watching the full moon appear from behind a thinning curtain of clouds. And this morning, we walked around the corner and into a coffee shop that, even with the lox platter on the menu, evoked Eugene, Oregon more than New York City, a mood not lessened by the Grateful Dead music on the PA. It was not lost on us, the amusing irony of three West Seattle Girls in New York finding their way directly to a place that could have been transported from the Pacific Northwest to the Village.

Familiar coffee shops aside, it is fun to toy with the idea of this perfect imaginary life. A nice walk up flat in an excellent neighborhood. A tiny kitchen because really, why bother cooking when there is such excellent food — and such variety right outside your front door? Late dinner, by our west coast standards, and early mornings because the trucks are unloading just outside. We have two bathrooms — it’s probably unimaginably expensive to have an apartment with that kind of luxury. But I imagine it anyway.

Two of us came in by train — me, wobbly and dizzy from what I’ll call “The Bad Juice Incident”, Kelly patient and directed. We talked about what it would be like to navigate that traffic everyday, striding through the massive swirl of crowds in Penn Station, traversing the vast underground maze at Times Square to find the right train going the right direction. How long, I wonder, in this imaginary life, does it take to get used to the crowds, the noise, the trips across town that take half an hour longer than you expect.

Because I’m not in the temporary mental state of a hotel room, I can sit here now,  drinking ginger ale and nursing my annoyingly delicate state while I pretend it’s my day off. Not far away, someone is hammering on a pipe; there is intermittent honking. My roommates are off sight-seeing, as I should be, I’m playing my “Let’s pretend” game alone for now. Of course I could not afford this place, a cursory search reveals a similarly configured condo for one million dollars. That’s four or five times my current mortgage.

But it is nice to imagine. I can see a church dome with a cross on top, I can look at the sky reflected in the big windows of the unit upstairs and to the left of the patio. I can walk around the corner into a place that serves risotto smothered in truffle oil and I can be astonished, again, by how charming and open the folks I interact with seem, these imaginary neighbors who make my coffee and bag my ginger ale and wish me a good day with a bright, right in the eyes smile. When I’m feeling 100% I can go all in, and maybe make a sandwich with bread from Amy’s and cheese from Murray’s and lettuce from the Fancy Grocery two blocks away. Even though it is far removed from a real existence, I can follow my sandwich with a cup of tea and think, “Yep, this is the life for me.”

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