H is for Haselnuss

Turkey is the world’s number one producer of hazelnuts. Once I’d learned this critical information, the Austrian obsession with hazelnut baked goods began to make more sense. Turkey and Austria have a long and contentious relationship that’s grounded in empirical — as in empire, not as in the scientific method — sibling rivalry between the …


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On Taking Pictures in Beautiful Places

The town where my husband grew up isn’t much to look at. There’s a main road lined by a supermarket, a place where you can buy a tractor, a tabak (one of those shops with cigarettes and stamps and postcards and candy bars and magazines), a cafe, a shockingly modernist church, a motorcycle and scooter …


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Cold

It was bitter cold this morning, but the light was irresistible. There was a frozen mist hanging just over the surface of the lake and weird foggy clouds in the sky. We got about six inches of new snow yesterday, so when I looked out the window in the morning, everything was covered in sparkles …


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Austria in Black and White

Most of the color in the landscape at this time of year is provided by either the blue sky or the colors that people are wearing while they’re out in the snow. Sometimes, there’s some color from the evergreens, or there are some red or green shutters on the side of a dark brown house, …


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F is for Faschingskrapfen

The first time I visited the town of Bad Aussee, my brain fritzed out a little; irony wired city hipsters like me have a hard time processing a place where lederhosen and dirndls are common attire, even amongst the young. Bad Aussee is very pretty; it’s a spa town but it came to regional prominence …


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A Lecture on How the Decline in Quality Baking is Your Own Damn Fault

Dear valued customers, We closed Backerei Klackl on August 15, 2011. We could not continue to run our bakery without either raising our prices or compromising on quality and variety. We were not prepared to do either. For more than 250 years there’s been a bakery next to this former toll bridge. For generations, this …


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