H is for Haselnuss

Turkey is the world’s number one producer of hazelnuts. Once I’d learned this critical information, the Austrian obsession with hazelnut baked goods began to make more sense. Turkey and Austria have a long and contentious relationship that’s grounded in empirical — as in empire, not as in the scientific method — sibling rivalry between the …


…read more.

Austria in Black and White

Most of the color in the landscape at this time of year is provided by either the blue sky or the colors that people are wearing while they’re out in the snow. Sometimes, there’s some color from the evergreens, or there are some red or green shutters on the side of a dark brown house, …


…read more.

A Lecture on How the Decline in Quality Baking is Your Own Damn Fault

Dear valued customers, We closed Backerei Klackl on August 15, 2011. We could not continue to run our bakery without either raising our prices or compromising on quality and variety. We were not prepared to do either. For more than 250 years there’s been a bakery next to this former toll bridge. For generations, this …


…read more.

Guest Post: Speaking in Tongues

Last year, after bidding a blubbering adieu to my Labrador, Henry, my husband and I uprooted our lives in Austin and moved to London for his next step up the startup ladder. Within a week I was consoling my dogless self by interrupting assorted cafe loungers and park joggers, asking wide-eyed and breathy if I …


…read more.

Norman Disapproves of Your Travel Style

We spent two dollars at the church rummage sale. For this, we got a few old postcards (blank, all from places I’ve been), a book called How to Travel Without Being Rich by Norman D. Ford, and two portfolios of Kodakchrome colored prints called See Your West. The folios were a Standard Oil promotion from …


…read more.

Stealing a Look at Stolen Art

Barnes Foundation Gallery

I’m in Philadelphia on assignment for an inflight magazine. What follows is not that story. FYI — Because I’m on assignment, nearly all of my travel expenses, including the entrance fee to the museum I write about here, are covered by Visit Philly, the city’s tourism office. Dear Dr. Barnes, I want you to know …


…read more.