Amulets and Altars

The Bangkok Amulet Market isn’t on the street corners outside the Tha Chang boat pier, it’s further down the street – though there is a thriving business along the sidewalks – and this is the amulet making supply district. If you want your completed amulets – or statues or any variety of iconographic items for …


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Fit to Be Thai-ed

For lunch on our first day in Bangkok, we had Thai food. It’s all very familiar, but hotter than the Thai food we get in Seattle. Delicious plates of phad thai, a big soup bowl of green curry, and a shrimp salad, swimming in lime juice, lemon grass, oh so delicious, oh so nice. Travel …


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Angkor What?

I was pretty sure my head was going to explode when I saw the gates to the Angkor complex, but when there were elephants inside, Actual Elephants… well. I walked up to them – there were five – and put out my hand and one of them started snuffling around with her trunk. “Bananas?” asked …


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Quit Yer Gawking

Guidebooks are full of advice about how to behave at Cambodia’s religious sites. You’re not supposed to wear a hat, you are supposed to dress modestly, not show your feet to the Buddha, oh, and a bunch of other things that are relatively easy to manage. I did forget to remove my cap in the …


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Thin Skin and History

Our guide was three years old when the Khmer Rouge fell. He lost a brother and a sister, and his parents lost everything because they were urban intellectuals. He looked at me. “You wear glasses,” he said, “that means you are an intellectual. You are not going to the fields, you are going to die.” …


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