On Amazement

a·maze·ment /əˈmeɪzmənt/ [uh-meyz-muhnt] –noun 1. overwhelming surprise or astonishment. 2. Obsolete. a. stupefaction; frenzy. b. perplexity. c. consternation. “You’re going to need to new adjectives.” This is (again) Dennis Mense, a veteran Antarctic expedition leader to me, prior to my trip south. He was right, and I hear him again, in my head, often, as …


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315 Million Dollars Too Late

Heads up, internet-y rant ahead. Rather read about travel? Here’s an ode to Hawaii from my archives. Let us assume, for a moment, that you are a professional writer, the kind that writes for a living. You make your living as a writer. You don’t have a project to promote. You don’t have a patron …


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Getting it Wrong

“Oh my god, you’re going to FREEZE!” I heard this over and over and over in the lead up to my trip to Antarctica. Less hyperbolic pals had more practical advice. “More poof,” said Peter, referring to my lack of a fluffy down jacket. “You have room, take the ridiculous hat. And that’s not that …


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Seven

My travel expenses to Antarctica were covered by TravelWild, a Seattle area travel operator specializing in adventure cruises.  I slumped back into my chair, overwhelmed. My seat at the window faced the stern, we were sliding past giant blue glaciers, their cracked faces a wall above the blue black mirror of the Lemaire Channel. I …


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Penguin Ohana

Everybody say “Awwwwwwwww.”

Walking (and Riding) Santiago

It wouldn’t have been that hard to find a way to get out into the Andes, they’re that close. Or to the ocean, about an hour away, or, well, to any number of places besides skinny Chile’s capitol city. But I had been so far off the grid — I wanted city time. I wanted …


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