Penguin Spotting

Everything that you imagine about seeing penguins, free range penguins, is true. You are, perhaps, unaware that you smell penguins before you see them, but everything else you know — that they are the perfect combination of adorable and hilarious — is completely accurate. There was a lot of yelling on our first day of …


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Santiago

Santiago is kind of the opposite of Antarctica.

All Ice in Wonderland

We tied up early this morning in port, the seas had been almost mirror flat for 48 hours, no joke. Thing is we’d expected to be hurled all over the place, there was an epic storm in the channel the day before and another vessel turned back, or at least that’s what the crew was …


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Postcard from Port Lockroy

The weather! The weather! It’s snowing now, fat white flakes, but I am red from the sun in spite of my 30SPF sun block. This morning we went through the second — or maybe the third — floating sculpture garden, there are two headed horses and the Black Hole Sun and some of them are …


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Taking the Bus to the End of the Road

I’ll just admit it, there’s no shame in it: I don’t like bus tours. I won’t think worse of you for taking one, they are, after all, so very convenient. What could be easier than being swept up from the door of your hotel, whisked off to see the sights in an air conditioned coach, …


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