All Ice in Wonderland

We tied up early this morning in port, the seas had been almost mirror flat for 48 hours, no joke. Thing is we’d expected to be hurled all over the place, there was an epic storm in the channel the day before and another vessel turned back, or at least that’s what the crew was …


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Postcard from Port Lockroy

The weather! The weather! It’s snowing now, fat white flakes, but I am red from the sun in spite of my 30SPF sun block. This morning we went through the second — or maybe the third — floating sculpture garden, there are two headed horses and the Black Hole Sun and some of them are …


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Taking the Bus to the End of the Road

I’ll just admit it, there’s no shame in it: I don’t like bus tours. I won’t think worse of you for taking one, they are, after all, so very convenient. What could be easier than being swept up from the door of your hotel, whisked off to see the sights in an air conditioned coach, …


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A Map for Penguins

As the launching station for so many Antarctica cruises, it’s not surprising that the port city of Ushuaia is packed full of penguin themed souvenirs. Sure, you can get your t-shirts and plush penguin chicks, but you can also get hats, fridge magnets, shot glasses, carved bric-a-brac, coffee mugs, pitchers in the shape of a …


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